{"id":7784,"date":"2026-05-23T20:42:40","date_gmt":"2026-05-23T17:42:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.schooler.org.ua\/uk-uaodjag-z-avariyi-korablja-koli-istorija-vihodit-na-podium-ru\/"},"modified":"2026-05-23T20:42:40","modified_gmt":"2026-05-23T17:42:40","slug":"uk-uaodjag-z-avariyi-korablja-koli-istorija-vihodit-na-podium-ru","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.schooler.org.ua\/cs\/uk-uaodjag-z-avariyi-korablja-koli-istorija-vihodit-na-podium-ru\/","title":{"rendered":"Shipwreck Clothes: When History Takes to Runway"},"content":{"rendered":"

Kdy\u017e v\u011bt\u0161ina lid\u00ed sly\u0161\u00ed o vrakech lod\u00ed, vybav\u00ed se jim pir\u00e1ti a zlato. Ale ne ve vysok\u00e9 m\u00f3d\u011b. <\/p>\n

Kdy\u017e je vrak vyta\u017een na povrch, obvykle putuje rovnou do muzejn\u00ed vitr\u00edny. Tam se to studuje, uchov\u00e1v\u00e1 a zapom\u00edn\u00e1. Ale ne v tomto p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b. Ve Finsku v\u011bdci vzali d\u0159evo z lodi ze 17. stolet\u00ed, p\u0159em\u011bnili ho na l\u00e1tku a upletli do \u0161at\u016f. Nav\u00edc se \u0161aty nejen \u0161ily, ale i nosily. Tyto Shipwreck Dress<\/strong> jsou v\u00fdsledkem dvoulet\u00e9 spolupr\u00e1ce mezi n\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00ed archeologi\u00ed, chemi\u00ed a haute couture. <\/p>\n

Nejde jen o marketingov\u00fd tah. <\/p>\n

\u201ePodvodn\u00ed kulturn\u00ed d\u011bdictv\u00ed \u010dasto z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 neviditeln\u00e9,\u201c \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 Minna Koivikko z Finsk\u00e9 agentury pro d\u011bdictv\u00ed. Podle n\u00ed tyto \u0161aty slou\u017e\u00ed jako jak\u00fdsi \u201ereprezentant historie s modern\u00edm n\u00e1dechem,\u201c<\/strong> zp\u016fsob, jak vn\u00e9st \u201emrtvou\u201c historii do na\u0161eho ka\u017edodenn\u00edho \u017eivota. <\/p>\n

Potopen\u00e1 lo\u010f “Khatperya”<\/h3>\n

Odkud se materi\u00e1l vzal? Z n\u00e1kladn\u00ed lodi Khatperya<\/strong>, nalezen\u00e9 v roce 2017 u pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Oulu. D\u0159evo bylo datov\u00e1no do roku 1684. Vyrostla v les\u00edch Ostrobothnia (z\u00e1padn\u00ed Finsko), byla z n\u00ed vyrobena lo\u010f, ta se potopila a pot\u00e9 byla vyzdvi\u017eena na hladinu. <\/p>\n

Ale nastal probl\u00e9m: \u010d\u00e1st tohoto d\u0159eva byla odsouzena k odpadu. B\u011bhem konzerva\u010dn\u00edho procesu z\u016fst\u00e1vaj\u00ed fragmenty, kter\u00e9 nejsou vhodn\u00e9 pro muzejn\u00ed expozice. Byly zdokumentov\u00e1ny, ale uk\u00e1zalo se, \u017ee jsou zbyte\u010dn\u00e9 a promarn\u011bn\u00e9. To se Koivikko nel\u00edbilo a p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161lela, jestli by tyto fragmenty mohly naj\u00edt \u201edruh\u00fd dech\u201c. <\/p>\n

P\u0159izvala chemiky, konstrukt\u00e9ry a odborn\u00edky na lesnictv\u00ed. C\u00edl byl jedin\u00fd: p\u0159im\u011bt mrtv\u00e9 d\u0159evo znovu fungovat. <\/p>\n

Od shnil\u00e9ho d\u0159eva po hedv\u00e1bn\u00e1 vl\u00e1kna<\/h3>\n

Hlavn\u00edm technick\u00fdm expertem byl bioin\u017een\u00fdr Inge Schlapp-Hacks. Nebrousila jen d\u0159evo. Nejprve byly odstran\u011bny vn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed vrstvy d\u0159eva, aby se dostalo k j\u00e1dru tohoto stolet\u00e9ho stromu. Pot\u00e9 byl rozdrcen a rozpu\u0161t\u011bn za vzniku ka\u0161e. <\/p>\n

Pomoc\u00ed patentovan\u00e9ho procesu Ioncell\u00ae<\/strong> byla tato buni\u010dina o\u0161et\u0159ena iontov\u00fdmi kapalinami, rozpou\u0161t\u011bdly, kter\u00e1 p\u0159em\u011b\u0148uj\u00ed celul\u00f3zu na vl\u00e1kna bez pou\u017eit\u00ed toxick\u00fdch chemik\u00e1li\u00ed. Ani bavlna, ani polyester. Jen star\u00e9 rostlinn\u00e9 bu\u0148ky znovu poskl\u00e1dan\u00e9 do struktury. <\/p>\n

“Vl\u00e1kna Ioncell\u00ae maj\u00ed hedv\u00e1bn\u00fd pocit,” vysv\u011btlil Schlapp-Ha\u514b\u65af. Jsou tak\u00e9 pevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e bavlna. A stejn\u00fd hn\u011bd\u00fd odst\u00edn? Nen\u00ed barven\u00fd ani b\u011blen\u00fd. Barva poch\u00e1z\u00ed p\u0159\u00edmo ze samotn\u00e9 lodi duch\u016f. <\/p>\n

P\u0159\u00edze vyroben\u00e1 z takov\u00fdch surovin se uk\u00e1zala jako p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b odoln\u00e1. K vytvo\u0159en\u00ed vzor\u016f byly pou\u017eity po\u010d\u00edta\u010dov\u00e9 programy, kter\u00e9 \u0161et\u0159ily energii a samotn\u00e9 \u0161aty byly pleteny na stroj\u00edch Shima Seiki. Jeden cel\u00fd produkt. \u017d\u00e1dn\u00e9 \u0161vy. Trojrozm\u011brn\u00fd. S nulov\u00fdm odpadem l\u00e1tky. A kdo chce pl\u00fdtvat zdroji, kdy\u017e je c\u00edlem zachr\u00e1nit planetu? <\/p>\n

Lekce o odpadu<\/h3>\n

Pirjo K\u00e4\u00e4ri\u00e4inen z Aalto University se tomuto t\u00e9matu v\u011bnuje patn\u00e1ct let. \u010cekala na materi\u00e1ly, kter\u00e9 m\u011bly smysl. Tyto \u0161aty jsou manifestem proti konzumu. <\/p>\n

“Ztroskot\u00e1n\u00ed je v\u00fdjime\u010dn\u00fd p\u0159\u00edpad,” p\u0159ipustil K\u00e4r\u00e4janen. “Ale nut\u00ed lidi zastavit se a p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161let.” <\/p>\n

Pokud lze ze stolet\u00e9ho tlej\u00edc\u00edho d\u0159eva ud\u011blat kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 \u0161aty, jakou pak m\u00e1me v\u00fdmluvu pro vyhazov\u00e1n\u00ed modern\u00edch od\u0159ezk\u016f do ko\u0161e? <\/p>\n

\u0160aty budou vystaveny v Oulu Art Museum<\/strong> 22. kv\u011btna. Jejich prot\u011bj\u0161ek bude vystaven na v\u00fdstav\u011b Design for a Cooler Planet<\/strong> na Aalto University letos v z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed. <\/p>\n

Mo\u017en\u00e1, \u017ee a\u017e p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u011b uvid\u00edte star\u00e9 d\u0159evo, budete myslet na hedv\u00e1b\u00ed m\u00edsto na hrub\u00e9.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Kdy\u017e v\u011bt\u0161ina lid\u00ed sly\u0161\u00ed o vrakech lod\u00ed, vybav\u00ed se jim pir\u00e1ti a zlato. Ale ne ve vysok\u00e9 m\u00f3d\u011b. Kdy\u017e je vrak vyta\u017een na povrch, obvykle putuje rovnou do muzejn\u00ed vitr\u00edny. Tam se to studuje, uchov\u00e1v\u00e1 a zapom\u00edn\u00e1. Ale ne v tomto p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b. Ve Finsku v\u011bdci vzali d\u0159evo z lodi ze 17. stolet\u00ed, p\u0159em\u011bnili ho na […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7783,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"tdm_status":"","tdm_grid_status":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.schooler.org.ua\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7784"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.schooler.org.ua\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.schooler.org.ua\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.schooler.org.ua\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.schooler.org.ua\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7784"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.schooler.org.ua\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7784\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.schooler.org.ua\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7783"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.schooler.org.ua\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7784"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.schooler.org.ua\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7784"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.schooler.org.ua\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7784"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}